The Lion Inn to Intake Farm (Littlebeck). 18 miles.
I did briefly meet two fellow Coasters at breakfast – it only occurred to me afterwards that they might be the brothers-in-law mentioned in one of Stuart’s comments?
I have enjoyed today hugely. The terrain suited me perfectly: the first few miles along open moorland were fairly level and the tracks were excellent, which allowed for real progress to be made – I do like to be over half way by lunchtime, and then relax and slow it down to better enjoy the afternoon.
I left Fat Betty a bar of Kendal Mint Cake, which seemed about the best use for it.
Great Fryup Dale next, and a really stunning view.
Shortly after that, the walk changes character, and strings together a delightful series of villages and valley-floor walks. First comes Glaisdale with Beggars Bridge.
Then it’s Egton Bridge and the stepping stones – I wished I’d waited and eaten my lunch here.
Then finally, to me at least, the real highlight of Grosmont. I spent about an hour there, including taking a second lunch (bacon butties simply can’t be walked past), which is about twice longer than I’ve stopped anywhere else all trip.
Finally it was time to leave for Littlebeck, and with the strong tailwind that has been today’s main weather feature, even Grosmont’s steep exit didn’t seem too bad.
The final photo shows what lies ahead tomorrow. (Yes, that is the sea on the distance – actually first seen yesterday).
Strangely, tonight I feel completely refreshed, even the two toe sores have partly healed up. I’ve even grown to re-like my boots.
So, with only 12 miles to do, I find I’m now smiling a lot thinking about finishing, but it’s also fair to say that I’m very much looking forward to getting back home.
Congratulations Neil, you will now have made it! Your blog has been very informative and I am quite inspired to do such a thing myself. (However, I might have to cobble together an alternative mid-life route as I think there is too much erosion of these heavily marketed long-distance routes!) Now, is that it? Or are you inspired to greater challenges, such as Mont Blanc?
What intrigues me the most is that you do not appear to have met any women en route! So much for Julia Bradubury being a rural, feminist icon! I always saw her as the Gemaine Greer of long-distance walking! Perhaps I am wrong – did you meeet any women doing this path? I think if the answer is no, then I might have to contact Jenny Murray and ask if they can do a feature on Radio 4’s Women’s Hour.
It is nice that you are looking forward to getting back to your family – I bet you will apprieciate them all the more for being away such a long time!
I will miss your daily updates – I hope you are going to write a post-trip reflective piece like the one you did beforehand. Did it live up to expectations?
So long, Coaster, keep hiking…..
PS I liked the steam trains!
Thanks hugely Zella for all the comments. Hopefully you have now found my final retropsective. Women? – up until the final night it was just the US couple on Day 1 – others who passed them later suggested they were still both struggling – a group of three couples seen but not really spoken to at Keld, and then woman with the foot problem I first met on the way from KS to Keld. I briefly then saw her again at Keld Lodge in the breakfast room the following morning. Her determination to keep going – despite clear medical advice not to – was both humbling and inpirational – and easily the bravest thing I saw all trip. This was her 3rd crossing.
At Intake Farm on my final night a met a prty of 4 Americans – inc 3 women – I’ll write more about that when I finally add some detail to my Day 12 post. That final meeting killed off one of my own surprises – I’d expected to meet more foreigners. Maybe I was slightly too early in the season for that.
You also touched on erosion. I went on this trip expecting much worse to be honest – although in many places, especially when the CtoC merges with other popular routes, the path tends to be paved / gravelled / otherwise managed. In places nearer the East Coast I wasn’t even seeing many boot prints – a sure previous sign I was probably on the right track – but to be fair it was also a lot dryer over there.